The approximate 52-kilometre trip from the community of Seymour Arm via a logging road is a shocking journey, but the rainforest destination is magnificent. Leaving Seymour Arm, one heads north, following the Seymour River up the valley. A worthy stop along the way is the short trail to the Seymour River falls, approximately 5 kilometres north of the community of Seymour Arm. Continuing along the east side of the river, one enters the park at the point where a fork crosses a bridge. At this point the park is contained within the strip of land between the two roads that continue along a wide, wetland valley in which the river meanders through pristine marshland, at the bottom of steep snow-capped mountains. There are a number of spots up the river where a canoe can be launched, providing a perfect paddle through a wild wetland to the take-out spot before the bridge.

The sides of the valley have been stripped of the giant cedars that once coated the slopes. In the late 1990s, a violent windstorm swept up the valley and blew down most of the leave strips between the cutblocks. Consequently, most of the ancient forest in the park’s lower 20-kilometre tail is gone and has been replaced by spruce plantations. The many burned-out stumps serve as an unwelcome memorial to the once majestic old growth forest. It may take many hundreds of years before this portion of the park begins to resemble an old growth rainforest again.

The main portion of the park begins at the upper valley where the valley sides narrow and the cutblocks end. The east side is primarily avalanche chutes and waterfalls, while the very rare and globally unique antique rainforest is on the east side on a bench with numerous creeks and wetland areas. Visitors should be aware that since the road is rough and may be blocked a small slide or debris, bringing a mountain bike could help speed access along the few kilometres of road into the forest.

At the end of where the road forks to the left, is the “Seymour Giant,” which at more than 12 feet in diameter is the largest Red cedar tree found in the park so far. The trees are widely spaced, with ferns that grow nearly to head height in summer and turn brown and are trampled down by Grizzlies in the fall. It is easy to hike in this ancient forest, with only a few prickly devils club shrubs to avoid. The major obstacles are the fallen giants that require climbing over to get past and the thickets of alder that follow the edge of the raging river.

Many layers of distinct lichens indicate that the forest is thousands of years old. Without fire is this very cold, wet forest, the only disturbances have been from blow-down or disease. Scientists have classified this type of forest as antique oroboreal rainforest, a highly unique type of interior temperate rainforest, globally confined to southern British Columbia (see Antique Oroboreal Rainforest). Some of the only places on earth that this incredible forest can be found include the Upper Adams River, Wells Gray Park, the Upper Seymour River, the Robson Valley the Cariboo Mountains, and the Cummins River Valley.

The fork on the right climbs the hill and continues farther north. The next right fork heads down to a landing that provides the best access to the river and a magnificent viewscape of a large waterfall directly across the river and the Seymour Glacier to the northwest. The river moves quickly here, rushing against rocks, as gravity exerts more force. The forest is an education. Everywhere there are signs of bears, well-worn paths and well-digested meals. Seedlings grow from nurse logs in small openings, created by the fall of a giant. In the early winter, this old growth forest also serves as important habitat for the few remaining Mountain caribou in this region.

The right fork ends at a landing that is the farthest point to the north you can travel by vehicle (or bike when the road is blocked which it likely will be now that the loggers have finally left). From this point on lies pure wilderness, where only a very few people have ever been. It would be possible to hike the approximately 12 kilometres through the ancient cedar, hemlock and spruce forest to reach an often snow-covered pass to the headwaters of Oliver Creek that drains into the Adams River. It is refreshing to know that exciting challenges like this hike still exist and SEAS hopes one day a trail could be built through these giant trees to the alpine country.